Chow Down (Low)
The new dining underground
Kitchen maestros who have manned the world’s best restaurants are taking things off the grid with secret supper clubs, culinary salons, and underground dinners.
Chef David Santos hosts Um Segredo suppers at his New York City apartment, often paying homage to his Portuguese heritage and the Bayou. In Chicago, the X-marx team, led by Chef Abraham Conlon, offers diners a mix of fait divers-sounding fusions like “Enemies Come Together” and “Where the Water Meets the City." Black Tie Barbecue Secret Suppers in Atlanta get an extra thrill from the nature of the tryst—like feasting in a historic cemetery or just inches shy of a pirouetting ballerina. On the Left Coast, Kali Dining, The Vagrancy Project, and Dinner at Eight tempt gastrophiles with multiple courses served on communal tables in the Hollywood Hills and beyond.
Snagging a seat at these in-demand chefs’ tables will probably go to your head. But just because you have Iron Chef-types feeding you, do not fall back on "Allez cuisine" as your new catch phrase.